Oct. 28, 2011
Today we arrived at the famous surf spot Teahupoo (pronounced Joe Poe). While the rest of the crew decided to go snorkeling, I went to catch some waves. I paddled out and stood on my rat board. Everything went perfectly...for the first five seconds. Then the wave overpowered me and sucked me to the top of the wave. I pictured myself in an awful picture depicting the world vertically, it went like this: sky, me, wave, air, board, more air, an insufficient amount of water, and finally the reef - then the wave crashed. I had summersaulted through the air, smashed my board in two, and face planted in the reef. I was ground across the reef and my teeth jammed into some cheese coral just as a rat trap clam snagged my tail. With the next wave I was suspended with my nose just out of the water in another totem like image: my nose, my teeth, the coral, my soggy body, my tail, and the clam. The next wave dislodged me and I swam home, another victim of Teahupoo. Unfortunately, I soon discovered that that damned captain Fraingck was ordering a lion. I saw it in the subject line of an email, "Leo coming." Time to devise a lion trap.
Scurvy Deckpaw
